Hi all,
how to print mixed-Sized original on 7830? Is it possibile?
I've tried with Adobe reader (choose fit...) but He did not print properly.
What should I do?
Thanks in advance,
Hi all,
how to print mixed-Sized original on 7830? Is it possibile?
I've tried with Adobe reader (choose fit...) but He did not print properly.
What should I do?
Thanks in advance,
Xerox workcentre 3045
I'm trying to print a single freaking page, ONE PAGE , and it keep's telling me "please load paper then press OK". i literally fed any amount of paper i can shove up those two slots and it still gives me the beep...
i've reinstalled the software, changed everything to A4 (pdf,office,printer software,etc)
except for factory reseting the printer which i cant find how.
If i wont find a solution on these forums i'll literally take it to work and smash it with a sledge hammer.
somebody know what is this error
thx
my other phaser 8560 MFP print only black and white.
I tried with several computers, and se
veral programs, it prints only black and white.
Why it is marked color: no (couleur: Non)
Hello,
I've been printing on vellum no problem for awhile and now, all of a sudden, I seen white lines/folds on my tabloids.
I have tried changing the media type, weight, etc., and still shows the streaks/folds.
Below is a picture of what I mean:
Any thoughts to what is the problem???
We use Print Conductor to batch print pdf's to our V80's. Each document is either a .jpg (color) or .Tiff (black & white). The click count is always wrong and favors color. Our service provider claims it's the batch printing software we use. Any suggestions?
As the time begins to draw closer for our move to the homestead, I find myself thinking about the various projects which lie ahead for me. We have the fruit trees to plant, a garden to start along with a host of addition important functions to get accomplished. One of my initial goals will be to get a 12 volt lighting system installed which will operate from rechargeable batteries.
These systems are not new in the least solar wire and have been in use with the recreational industry for decades. I experienced the systems first hand often in the past and actually had the opportunity to use them for an extended length of time a year or two ago when I initiated a six month long bug out exercise. With the new LED lighting systems out today the intensity of the lights have been drastically improved while battery drain has been decreased.
My goal is to establish initially two separate electrical systems which can compliment each other. The first system will operate as it usually would in any home - from the 120 volt input line voltage. The second electrical system will operate the lights and perhaps a few appliances if necessary. This will be the battery operated system with charging being accomplished by a solar cell collection.
This at first sounds pretty great with having two systems connected - a prime along with a backup but let's remember the ultimate idea is to remove the family from the 120 volt electrical requirement eventually.
My cost estimate for this retrofit of my home electrical system is approximately $800.00 which includes about $200 for the materials and supplies to complete the installation and $600 for the solar cells themselves. Since I am an old and decrepit man these days I have spread the project out over a short period of time and broke it down into several phases.
At the conclusion of phase one, I should be able to have about a two day supply of 12 volt power running into the home which will permit me to operate several small appliances if necessary. It is hoped that if everything comes out as expected I will be able to use my laptop, operate all the lights and perhaps use a small microwave without placing a demand on the commercial electrical supply.
Phase two will be the actual installation of the solar cell system to recharge the battery banks sufficiently.
Materials necessary for phase one will initially include
* Two deep cycle marine batteries.
* One 1,000 watt inverter to change the battery power to our common 120 household AC.
* Necessary control cable and house wiring needed to complete the installation.
A small building will house the batteries and the associated equipment during phase one and the solar system will mount on the roof of that building during phase two. This will keep the equipment and the batteries away from the elements and allow me to expand the number of deep cycles connected to the system slowly over a period of time.
Connecting the batteries together and into the system is a simple matter. We merely need to connect the two batteries to each other with a short cable. It is best for future maintenance and troubleshooting to employ a standard color code system as the project progresses. In this case, we will connect red power cables to the positive terminals of the batteries and black ones to the negative terminals. This type of connection is referred to as a parallel connection and affords your system greater current capacity then would the usual series connections.
Next, we would need to connect the batteries to the 1000 watt inverter. Once again the red cable will connect to the positive terminal of the other battery as well as to the positive connection of the inverter. Similarly the black cable will connect from the negative battery terminal to the inverters negative connection.
All that is left would be to connect the battery system to the installed 12 volt lighting wires that have been installed inside the home. That is actually the most time consuming part of the complete project. Before we close this phase I would like to stress a few safety hints to those who may be planning to perform the same modifications to their homes.
Make sure that you protect your system by having a series of 12 volt fuses placed in line. My intent is to use a Plexiglas panel and install the fuses on it sort of a rack mount fuse array. Connect your fuses to the positive or red cable side of the system.
The same will apply to your inverter in the event that it has no fuse already in place. Put a 110-amp Class T fuse into the red or positive cable line between your battery packs and the inverter itself. Keep in mind this fuse is a special type of DC fuse and not your usual AC variety. For safety sake nothing would prevent you from installing an AC fuse on the opposite side of your inverter as well.
https://youtu.be/yVPMXtgUWF8
If you have a considerable distance for your cables to travel consider heavier cables. Always remember that the longer your cables are the heavier wire will be needed. Longer cables often experience voltage drops. Thin rubber cables tend to get hotter then the thicker ones do. In most cases a number 14-ga should do the trick.
You may also wish to install a good grounding rod to prevent unforeseen problems. RV's generally do not have an external ground but it is better to be safe than sorry.
You may spend a few dollars more when purchasing an inverter but try to get one with a low-voltage warning light and a low-voltage automatic disconnect (LVD) in order to shut off the power to the inverter in the event that the battery voltage reaches a dangerously low level. If you deplete your batteries too much they tend to become damaged and their life is drastically shortened.
When selecting your batteries you should purchase the marine deep-cycle types and not the regular automotive batteries. They cost more but are better for our purpose here. The difference in the batteries is that the usual auto type batteries are used primarily to start your car and then sit idle as it is charged whereas the deep cycle versions are made to run for hours at a time.
You should be able to run your laptop, a small microwave and a 70 watt lamp at the same time on this system. As you can readily tell I will have to add greatly to the starter system in order to be able to function as a normal home.
During our phase two project I will be adding the necessary electrical power cable and its associated charge controller to the system. A charge controller will control the amount of power going into our battery banks and keep it at a measured amount. It also ensures that our solar cells do not take the energy back out of the batteries. These too will have additional panels installed as we progress in our challenge here.
I expect to start the phase one work in the spring or possibly early summer.
Can anyone help please?
So many times, I print from Photoshop on Xerox Phaser 750 and blank pages or half printed pages come off the printer with:
ERROR: rangecheck
OFFENDING COMMAND: image
STACK:
(
)
Does anyone else get this? I waste so much paper and time.
Thanks
Karen
C60 printer with Fiery
I am able to print on 8.5x11 plain and perforated cardstock, 12x18 heavyweight paper and legal paper printed fine.
I am having trouble with 12x18 synthetic paper (performance polyester) 8 mil and 260gsm. It discolors on the last 3/4" inch of the trail edge. I would have uploaded an image but I keep getting an upload error. It is a picture of plants and goes from bright green leaves to a bluish green. I have tried a sky shot of yellow and it looks fine.
I have tried different paper settings. I tried to cross reference with the Xerox C60 paper specs guide to the best of my ability, but no success.
Copier has 6400 color prints and 400 black prints.
Any help would be appreciated and I will continue to try and get a image up as well.
I keep getting a notification on there that says something like “reorder R1 but do not replace,” Can anyone tell me what I need to do to fix this?
Also, there have been grey smudges at the bottom of each print job that have not gone away. I tried to run blank paper through to try and get rid of it, but they still show up. Any suggestions on how to clean it?
Hello. I have a printer "Xerox WorkCentre 3045NI". The problem consists of the following. Every day at the beginning of the day, the printer prints the first 10 sheets at a normal print speed, but then it starts to print very slowly throughout the day.
The printer is connected to a network with a router via wireless connection. It does not matter which PC prints to the printer, it continues to print slowly.
This problem has existed since its purchase of the printer.
How can I solve this problem?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Hello
I have the 7500DT for the last four months The paper auto select don’t work. the presets don’t work. It cannot remember the combinations I ender and recalls randomly anything. Every time I have to MANUALLY select paper and tray (tray1 DL , tray2 A4 , tray3 A3) Or else it can print a A4 from the Word in the tray1 DL or A3 ,Everywhere but the tray2. The same goes for every application, CorelDraw Photoshop etc (from internet explorer through the web interface I have set all the trays papers) Also, I have to set the plain papers (120gr) as thick card stock or else the toner falls of the paper. (there is no humidity problem, I have 3 HP besides the XEROX share the same paper with no problem. So I have a 7500 with the speed of four to six paper per minute.
Is there a solution ?
Hi,
We have a xerox 6655i. When attemping to print an envelope from the MAC pcs in the office, the job is held(awaiting resources). Below are the steps I have taken:
1) Latest driver installed
2) Select by pass tray on the pc
3) Correct envelpe size(#10) selected both on the pc and printer.
Please note if print a 8.5x11 document from the by pass tray, it prints.
Thank you
Am I reading correctly, that the only way I can get our printer to accept the new toner is to pay someone to enter in a code? I find this hard to believe, and was this mentioned in the specs when we go to purchase this? I do not remember reading that, although it has been 2yrs.
Yesterday my Versant 80 has begun to, what looks like, pinch my wider papers. I can run 8.5x11 LEF and it doesnt do anything but if I run 11x17 or larger it pinches the leading edge, as pictured. Heaver weight stocks come through looking fine, but I can feel a little bump where the pinch would have occured.
Ive opened all the front panels and did my best to trace through the paper path to see if there were any blockages. Ive also tried printing from four different trays, fanning and flipping the paper, and blowing out any spots that I would think this could occur.
Any ideas?
Hi
I have just bought a Xerox WorkCentre 6515 and I am not very satisfied with the printing quality. The colors are very different from the ones on my computer. I have calibrated the colors, and used different printing methods.
See the attached images. Actually the scanner did a pretty good job - it is much darker and greener in real life.
Original:
Printed:
I have a new Versalink B405 connected on a simple network with 5 computers. 4 of the 5 computers are able to select 2 sided printing. One of the computers, the option is grayed out. That computer is running Windows 10. Any suggestions?
Printer stopped printing colour. Black & White printing only
The other toners were also showing as low, replace soon.
I therefore ordered a a complete set of 4 toners.
When fitted,
The origonal messages still appears - replace Magenta, other colours replace soon
I have tried giving them a shake and replacing.
I have also set printer to defaults.
I cannot print a configuration page.
Good printer but this is frustrating
Hello all,
I have noticed that there is an incosistancy in printing colors for my printer. It mainly shows up in the black color. I ran a contanmiation check and I noticced that there is a pattern to how the incosistency prints. It is more like diagonal lines. I am placing links to the pictures becuase I can only post them in line.
This streaking pattern does appear for all of the other colors but it is most prominent for the black. And it is the same pattern. The first link is a picture for the contamination check for the black ink. The second is a test for all 4 colors.
I ma not sure what I can do. I took a soft cloth and cleaned the heads and the laser. I also used the function UI refresh, Toner refresh on the black, and clean developer. Still the issues persists. Any help would be greatly appreciated:
I contacted support about this, but they refused to answer as I'm a month past warranty, so I'm guessing its a major issue. Hoping someone on the forums had the problem while under warranty and can share what support told you.
My Phaser 6022 when it goes into sleep mode does not wake when a print job is sent to it. I have to power it off, and back on, then the print job goes through. This is while connected by USB or using WiFi. If I hardwire to the network, it works fine.
When it is like this, the menu is unresponsive/frozen, you can press all the buttons you want and it won't wake.
I've installed the lastest firmware hoping for some improvement, but nothing changed.
If anyone else had this problem, could you share what was needed to fix it?
Thanks.